‘Every Cook Should Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.

Christine Mason
Christine Mason

A tech enthusiast and gaming industry analyst with over a decade of experience in digital entertainment solutions.

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